Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
- Finnegan, William
- Penguin Books
- Apr 26, 2016
Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life is a captivating memoir written by William Finnegan, chronicling his obsession with surfing. The book takes the reader on a journey around the world, from California to Hawaii, the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, and Africa. Finnegan shares stories of his life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu, his apprenticeships to famous waves, and his experiences navigating unfamiliar cultures. The book is an adventure story, autobiography, social history, literary road movie, and an exploration of the mastering of an exacting art. Overall, Barbarian Days is a beautifully written book that will keep readers engaged from beginning to end.